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| author | surya <surya@urbanecologycollective.org> | 2026-04-18 15:51:27 -0400 |
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| committer | surya <surya@urbanecologycollective.org> | 2026-04-18 15:51:27 -0400 |
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diff --git a/public/atom.xml b/public/atom.xml index 5940707..92c44b8 100644 --- a/public/atom.xml +++ b/public/atom.xml @@ -20,10 +20,10 @@ </name> </author> - <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/"/> - <id>https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/</id> + <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/"/> + <id>https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/</id> - <content type="html" xml:base="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/"><p>New York is home to over 550 community gardens, each with their own unique + <content type="html" xml:base="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/"><p>New York is home to over 550 community gardens, each with their own unique history, land, and culture. Some focus on food production, some host art and theatrical events, some serve as a hub for the neighborhood, and still others create ecologically resilient wildlife habitat. In one @@ -47,7 +47,7 @@ time, the trees that were planted when the garden was founded in 1981 were starting to mature and grow larger. These days, Green Oasis has a high level of canopy coverage casting shade throughout the garden, making it impractical to grow fruits and vegetables.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/shade.jpg" alt="A shady garden" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/shade.jpg" alt="A shady garden" /></p> <p>The changes at Green Oasis resemble the natural process of ecological succession. In the Eastern Temperate Forests ecoregion of North America, land left to its own devices will be first occupied by grasses, herbs, and shrubs. At this @@ -57,7 +57,7 @@ habitat for shade-tolerant plants such as Pennsylvania sedge. Finally, shade-tolerant hardwoods such as white oak and shagbark hickory grow and shade out the pine trees. Perhaps later, a wildfire or human activity will reset the cycle back to the beginning.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/succession.png" alt="Ecological succession" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/succession.png" alt="Ecological succession" /> <em>University of Chicago newsroom</em></p> <p>Ecological communities, like human communities, are always changing and adapting to the changing environment. It is true that humans have the ability @@ -68,7 +68,7 @@ coppicing technique to indefinitely maintain a pine forest where matsutakes grow well. At the same time, we must acknowledge that each kind of environment has its own advantages and provides habitat to different kinds of flora and fauna (including humans).</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/scoliid.jpg" alt="A scoliid wasp" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/scoliid.jpg" alt="A scoliid wasp" /></p> <p>While a forest ecosystem is not suited to growing traditional community gardening crops, they are perfect for growing mushrooms, leafy greens, and pawpaws. And remember that food production is only @@ -77,7 +77,7 @@ effect, providing humans a (free) respite from increasing temperatures. A dense forest of trees filters air pollution and reduces flooding by absorbing stormwater. Of course, a forest ecosystem is home to countless kinds of ferns, sedges, spring ephemerals, asters &amp; goldenrods, insects, birds and mammals.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/art.jpeg" alt="An art show at Green Oasis" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/art.jpeg" alt="An art show at Green Oasis" /></p> <p>As community gardeners, our first instinct may be to prune large tree branches and bring more sunlight to our raised beds. But an alternate path exists. What if we embraced the natural process of ecological @@ -147,7 +147,7 @@ nursery, we started with the axiom that all plants are inherently beautiful, and asked ourselves how we could understand each plant’s individual beauty and how to create an composition that remains ecologically and aesthetically beautiful throughout the year.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/carexsprengelii.jpg" alt="Carex sprengelii" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/carexsprengelii.jpg" alt="Carex sprengelii" /> <em>Mt. Cuba Center</em></p> <p>While flowers do provide pollen and nectar, insects also need <em>habitat</em>. Sedges and grasses create dense mats where pollinators and other insects can shelter @@ -173,60 +173,60 @@ slender woodoats (<em>Chasmanthium laxum</em>), eastern woodlan <p>Bottlebrush grass is a cool-season grass (meaning that it grows actively in the spring and fall), features spectacular seedheads and is the host for the northern pearly eye butterfly.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/bottlebrush.jpg" alt="Bottlebrush" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/bottlebrush.jpg" alt="Bottlebrush" /> <em>mowildflowers.net</em></p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/pearlyeye.jpg" alt="Pearly eye" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/pearlyeye.jpg" alt="Pearly eye" /> <em>Illinois Department of Natural Resources</em></p> <p>Slender woodoats is a warm-season grass, growing actively in the summer, and features staccato, delicate seedheads, and is the host for various skipper butterflies. Both grasses’ seeds are an important food source for birds.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/slenderwoodoats.jpg" alt="Slender woodoats" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/slenderwoodoats.jpg" alt="Slender woodoats" /> <em>Gowanus Canal Conservancy</em></p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/cloudedskipper.jpg" alt="Clouded skipper" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/cloudedskipper.jpg" alt="Clouded skipper" /> <em>Gary L. Spicer</em></p> <p>Eastern woodland sedge is a large, clumping evergreen sedge, resilient to a wide variety of environmental conditions.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/carexblanda.jpg" alt="Carex blanda" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/carexblanda.jpg" alt="Carex blanda" /> <em>Mt. Cuba Center</em></p> <p>Finally, interrupted fern is a large fern with prominent fiddleheads and a unique texture.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/interruptedfern.jpg" alt="Interrupted fern" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/interruptedfern.jpg" alt="Interrupted fern" /> <em>James St. John</em></p> <h3 id="seasonal-theme-layer">Seasonal theme layer</h3> <p>While flowers were not the main visual focus of our design, they are still important aesthetically as well as for pollinators. We were interested in flowers that are not usually considered “ornamental,” but provided outsized benefit to insects. We chose spiderwort (<em>Tradescantia virginiana</em>), slender mountainmint (<em>Pycnanthemum tenuifolium</em>), late figwort (<em>Scrophularia marilandica</em>), and white wood aster (<em>Eurybia divaricata</em>), a selection that ensures blooms throughout the year.</p> <p>Spiderwort produces purple flowers in spring. They only bloom for one day, but the plant has so many buds the blooms are continuous. They provide abundant nectar for butterflies and hummingbirds, as well as pollen for bumblebees, little carpenter bees, and sweat bees. The leaves of spiderwort are remarkably grass-like, adding to the overall visual effect of the planting.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/spiderwort.webp" alt="Spiderwort" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/spiderwort.webp" alt="Spiderwort" /> <em>theplantnative.com</em></p> <p>Slender mountainmint produces small but showy white flowers in the summer and is a veritable magnet for bees and butterflies. It features a strong mint aroma.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/slendermountainmint.jpg" alt="Slender mountainmint" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/slendermountainmint.jpg" alt="Slender mountainmint" /> <em>nativeplantsasheville.com</em></p> <p>Late figwort produces small red cup-shaped flowers in the summer that are full of nectar for leaf-cutter bees, sweat bees, bumblebees, butterflies, and ruby-throated hummingbirds.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/latefigwort.jpg" alt="Late figwort" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/latefigwort.jpg" alt="Late figwort" /> <em>NC State Extension</em></p> <p>Finally, white wood aster produces white daisy-like flowers in the fall, providing pollen and nectar to insects at a time when little food is otherwise available. The seedheads are also an important food source for birds through the winter.</p> <p>In a deciduous forest, the summer is characterized by intense shade, making it so few flowers can grow. Therefore, plants that bloom in the early spring (we will discuss spring ephemerals below) and fall, such as asters and goldenrods, are critical components of the ecosystem. Forest insects have co-evolved with the flowers and wake up from hibernation at the same time their preferred flowers are in bloom.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/whitewoodaster.jpg" alt="White wood aster" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/whitewoodaster.jpg" alt="White wood aster" /> <em>Wild Seed Project</em></p> <h3 id="groundcover-layer">Groundcover layer</h3> <p>The groundcover layer consists of competitive and clonal-spreading plants that provide soil fertility and structure, erosion control, stormwater capture, invasive species suppression, biodiversity, pollutant uptake, moisture retention, and wildlife habitat. We chose a variety of sedges and ferns for this layer: field oval sedge (<em>Carex molesta</em>), long-beaked sedge (<em>Carex sprengelii</em>), Pennsylvania sedge (<em>Carex pensylvanica</em>), low woodland sedge (<em>Carex socialis</em>), eastern narrow-leaved sedge (<em>Carex amphibola</em>), rosy sedge (<em>Carex rosea</em>), Christmas fern (<em>Polystichum acrostichoides</em>), and broad beech fern (<em>Phegopteris hexagonoptera</em>). The large number of species is to maximize the biodiversity, but also act as an experiment to see which ones do well and which do poorly. Below, broad beech fern and Pennsylvania sedge are pictured.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/broadbeechfern.jpg" alt="Broad beech fern" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/broadbeechfern.jpg" alt="Broad beech fern" /> <em>Katja Schulz</em></p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/carexpensylvanica.jpg" alt="Carex pensylvanica" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/carexpensylvanica.jpg" alt="Carex pensylvanica" /> <em>Mt. Cuba Center</em></p> <h3 id="dynamic-filler-layer">Dynamic filler layer</h3> <p>The dynamic filler layer consists of short-lived but fast-growing and readily self-seeding plants that fill in gaps left by disturbances or plant deaths before invasive species take over. We chose Jacob’s ladder (<em>Polemonium reptans</em>), which has blue flowers in spring that are a favorite of many native bee species.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/jacobsladder.jpg" alt="Jacob’s ladder" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/jacobsladder.jpg" alt="Jacob’s ladder" /> <em>Ryan Kaldari</em></p> <h3 id="spring-ephemeral-layer">Spring ephemeral layer</h3> <p>In forests, spring ephemerals flowers bloom before trees leaf out in the spring and then die back completely when summer starts and the garden becomes shady, reappearing the next year. They are critical food sources for many kinds of insects, and are unfortunately in danger due to the proliferation of invasive species in New York. For this layer, we chose bloodroot (<em>Sanguinaria canadensis</em>), trout lily (<em>Erythronium americanum</em>), Dutchman’s breeches (<em>Dicentra cucullaria</em>), spring beauty (<em>Claytonia virginica</em>), and mayapple (<em>Podophyllum peltatum</em>). Below, Dutchman’s breeches and mayapple are pictured.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/dutchmansbreeches.jpg" alt="Dutchman’s breeches" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/dutchmansbreeches.jpg" alt="Dutchman’s breeches" /> <em>NYC Parks</em></p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/mayapple.jpg" alt="Mayapple" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/mayapple.jpg" alt="Mayapple" /> <em>Jay Sturner</em></p> <p>Bloodroot is a pollen source for early-season native insects such as sweat bees, cuckoo bees, small carpenter bees, bee flies, mining bees, and beetles. It is used as a red natural dye by Native American artists.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/bloodroot.jpg" alt="Bloodroot" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/bloodroot.jpg" alt="Bloodroot" /> <em>NYC Parks</em></p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/bloodrootdye.jpg" alt="Bloodroot dye" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/bloodrootdye.jpg" alt="Bloodroot dye" /> <em>ithacawaldorf.blogspot.com</em></p> <h3 id="on-plant-selection">On plant selection</h3> <p>Although we tried to choose plants with properties suitable for the different @@ -248,7 +248,7 @@ not everything will go according to plan and we will need to make changes in the future.</p> <h2 id="plant-layout">Plant layout</h2> <p>The raised bed is 8 feet by 3.5 feet, for a total of 28 square feet. We planted in staggered rows to maximize the planting space (and minimize bare soil), as shown below. This diagram uses the diameter of the circle to represent a plant’s projected maximum breadth, which is useful when planning out the layout. Most are given a 1’ diameter circle. Approximate expected heights are listed as well. Pennsylvania sedge underplants the large interrupted fern as well as in tight spots.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/forestfloor.png" alt="Forest floor diagram" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/forestfloor.png" alt="Forest floor diagram" /></p> <p>The structural plants are placed first at prominent locations. Drifts of seasonal theme plants are interspersed throughout, then groundcover and dynamic filler plants are used to fill in all the gaps. Because they don’t directly compete with other plants, spring ephemerals are scattered throughout (we planted 2 of each). We tended to place taller plants on the north side so as not to shade out shorter plants, but as all the plants are shade-tolerant anyway, this was not a primary consideration.</p> <h2 id="plant-acquisition">Plant acquisition</h2> <p>We acquired plants from the city-run <a rel="external" href="https://www.nycgovparks.org/natural-resources/pecan">PECAN</a> nursery, the <a rel="external" href="https://nbkparks.org/">North Brooklyn Parks Alliance</a> native plant giveaway, <a rel="external" href="https://plantbuyingcollective.com/">Plant Buying Collective</a>, <a rel="external" href="https://gowanuscanalconservancy.org/nursery/">Lowlands Nursery</a>, and the <a rel="external" href="https://www.kingslandwildflowers.com/">Kingsland Wildflowers</a> nursery.</p> @@ -306,7 +306,7 @@ place the other plants more freely, using the layout as an approximate guide rather than an exact specification. We planted in late September. Fall planting is ideal for native plants because it reduces the need for watering and allows the plants to settle in over the winter before starting to grow next spring.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/littleforestfloor.jpg" alt="Little forest floor" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/littleforestfloor.jpg" alt="Little forest floor" /></p> <h2 id="post-installation">Post-installation</h2> <p>We watered the plants thoroughly after the inital installation, and then kept watering for a few weeks. The weather got cold quite quickly, so we have paused @@ -328,7 +328,7 @@ as a marker of human activity and creative expression.</p> then painting with a brush and calligraphy ink. Beneath the sign is an NFC tag that links to this blog post. We hope that visitors appreciate the ecological and artistic intent of our little forest floor in a raised bed.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/little-forest-floor/littleforestfloorsign.jpg" alt="Little forest floor sign" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/little-forest-floor/littleforestfloorsign.jpg" alt="Little forest floor sign" /></p> </content> </entry> @@ -345,13 +345,13 @@ and artistic intent of our little forest floor in a raised bed.</p> </name> </author> - <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/"/> - <id>https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/</id> + <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/"/> + <id>https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/</id> - <content type="html" xml:base="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/"><p>When I first joined Green Oasis Community Garden in 2024, I had essentially zero knowledge of gardening. More than that, I didn’t really understand what the <em>purpose</em> of a public garden was. Was it supposed to be an artistic expression of the gardeners? Provide beauty for the community? Or perhaps offer a refuge from the concrete jungle? How do we choose what sort of plants to plant?</p> + <content type="html" xml:base="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/"><p>When I first joined Green Oasis Community Garden in 2024, I had essentially zero knowledge of gardening. More than that, I didn’t really understand what the <em>purpose</em> of a public garden was. Was it supposed to be an artistic expression of the gardeners? Provide beauty for the community? Or perhaps offer a refuge from the concrete jungle? How do we choose what sort of plants to plant?</p> <p>Over the last two years, through a great deal of reading, conversation, and visits to other gardens, the concepts of “community” and “garden” started to merge. A “community” began to include not just the human garden members, but also the plants, insects, birds, other wildlife, and even the microbes in the soil. At the same time, the “garden” began to include the human gardeners themselves, not as external imposers of will, but as just another part of the ecosystem. The focus was no longer only on <em>which</em> plants and animals and humans are in the garden, but on how they <em>relate</em> to each other spatially, temporally, ecologically, and communally.</p> <p>In order to provide food and shelter for wildlife, as well as beauty and education for humans, we decided to create a new native plant garden at Green Oasis. Native plants are those plants that are indigenous to the area, which have co-evolved with the local fauna for millions of years.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/pond.webp" alt="Garden" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/pond.webp" alt="Garden" /></p> <h1 id="learning">Learning</h1> <h2 id="reading">Reading</h2> <p>The first step was to read and learn as much as we could. As amateurs, we had little to no formal training or even practical experience. The following resources were tremendously helpful. <em>Bringing Nature Home</em> explained that the best way to support our local ecosystems is through planting native plants. <em>Planting in a Post-Wild World</em> explained how to combine those native plants into a <em>designed plant community</em> that would be beautiful, resilient, low-maintenance, and full of life.</p> @@ -374,10 +374,10 @@ and artistic intent of our little forest floor in a raised bed.</p> <p>Before planting anything, we spent a long time just observing the garden as it is. How does it look in each season? What areas get lots of sun and which are shaded throughout the year? Where does water collect during a heavy rainstorm? What areas are most visited by humans? We tried to identify as many plants, bushes, trees, insects, and birds as possible (iNaturalist, Plant.net, and Merlin smartphone apps help, in addition to standard dichotomous keys). We shared our knowledge and observations with each other, as well as the history of the plants in the garden over the decades. We took hundreds of pictures of the garden as a whole as well as of individual flowers, birds, and insects.</p> <p>We discovered that the garden struggled with <a rel="external" href="https://agriculture.ny.gov/plant-industry/prohibited-and-regulated-invasive-plants">invasive species</a> such as multiflora rose, porcelainberry, white mulberry, goutweed, and vinca. Different invasive species require different methods of control. For tree saplings or bushes, we decided to remove them immediately if possible. But for groundcover vines such as goutweed and vinca, we realized it was best to plant something in their stead rather than simply removing them.</p> <p>As a woodland garden, we were quite shady throughout the year as soon as trees leafed out in spring. There were essentially no areas of full sun conditions (over 6 hours of direct sunlight per day).</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/outsidepond.webp" alt="Shade" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/outsidepond.webp" alt="Shade" /></p> <p>Yet we also found many native plants that did quite well, such as white snakeroot (late-blooming woodland wildflower), Virginia bluebells (spring ephemeral), swamp milkweed, and lady fern. Looking at the site conditions for the plants that already do well was useful during plant selection where we looked for plants that grow in similar circumstances. Moreover, we already had a rich population of wildlife: leaf-cutter bees, green sweat bees, bumblebees, carpenter bees, yellowjackets, fireflies, house flies, monarch butterflies, mosquitos, squirrels, rats, robins, bluejays, cardinals, migrating warblers and sparrows, and the occasional Cooper’s Hawk.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/snakeroot.webp" alt="White snakeroot" /></p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/hawk.webp" alt="Cooper’s Hawk" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/snakeroot.webp" alt="White snakeroot" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/hawk.webp" alt="Cooper’s Hawk" /></p> <p>In addition, we visited several other native plant gardens in the area for inspiration and research, including the High Line, the southeast corner of Tompkins Square Park, Brooklyn Botanic Garden, New York Botanical Garden, Kingsland Wildflowers, and Seward Park, often several times throughout the year.</p> <h2 id="designed-plant-communities">Designed plant communities</h2> <p>Planting in a Post-Wild World discusses the concept of <em>designed plant communities</em>. Plant communities are a way of thinking about a group of plants in a particular place, so we can observe how they interact with each other and with the environment. Like any other type of community, plant communities change over time through processes of ecological succession or disruptions caused by floods, wildfires, or humans. A designed plant community is a plant community that is intentionally created by a garden designer.</p> @@ -415,7 +415,7 @@ and artistic intent of our little forest floor in a raised bed.</p> <h2 id="site-selection">Site selection</h2> <p>The best time of year to plant native perennials is in the fall (approximately between September 1 and October 15 in New York City, depending on the weather that year). This allows us to minimize watering and gives the plants the winter to settle in before they start growing next spring.</p> <p>For the site, we chose a partial-sun area in the front of the garden with high visibility. The hope is that it will encourage visitors to learn more about the native plants and how they support wildlife in our garden. Another factor was that this area was initially covered almost entirely in vinca major and vinca minor: we could simply remove everything that was currently there. With rhizomatous invasive species such as vinca, it is very difficult to remove all parts of the rhizome, and even moreso if we have to work around plants we do want to keep (which often hide vinca rhizome fragments in their roots).</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/garden-pre.webp" alt="Initial state of the site" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/garden-pre.webp" alt="Initial state of the site" /></p> <h2 id="soil-testing">Soil testing</h2> <p>We obtained a soil test from Brooklyn College’s <a rel="external" href="https://www.brooklyn.edu/usl/">Urban Soils Lab</a>, which is always a good idea especially in the disturbed urban sites most community gardens are on. You can also do an <a rel="external" href="https://growitbuildit.com/mason-jar-soil-test-clay-sand-silt/">at-home soil texture test</a> using a mason jar and detergent powder.</p> <p>For a community garden, our soil is pretty decent, with a high percentage (8%) of organic matter and a sandy loam texture. It is a bit alkaline, probably because there used to be a building on the land, but likely not enough to affect plants other than acid-loving blueberries and the like. The soil is also somewhat low in nitrogen/phosphorus/potassium, but native plants in New York actually prefer relatively nutrient-poor soils (indeed, excessive nitrogen can prove detrimental by promoting invasive growth and foliage overgrowth). Salinity levels were not concerning either.</p> @@ -426,37 +426,37 @@ and artistic intent of our little forest floor in a raised bed.</p> <p>Using the four-layer framework above, we decided to plant 2 structural plants, 30 groundcover plants, 15 seasonal theme plants, and 5 dynamic filler plants. In addition, because we are a woodland garden, we additionally interspersed 15 spring ephemerals (described below), for a total of 65 plants.</p> <p>Lowlands Nursery allows us to filter by various site conditions but we found that all nursery websites are inconsistent with regards to light exposure, moisture needs, and bloom times, which are more complicated than a discrete categorization. It’s best to just research every single plant offered by the nursery, cross-referencing multiple sources. It took a lot of time but was worth it in the end.</p> <p>For the structural layer, we decided to transplant 2 New York ironweeds that were already in the garden. Ironweed has a remarkable structure even when it is not blooming, reaching 6-8 feet tall with a strong silhouette created by clearly defined leaves and seedheads. In the future, we could have used a few more ironweeds to reinforce that structure.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/ironweed.webp" alt="Ironweed" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/ironweed.webp" alt="Ironweed" /></p> <p>For the seasonal theme layer, our candidate plants were hairy beardtongue, monarda fistulosa, hoary skullcap, woodland sunflower, sweet goldenrod, hoary mountainmint, monarda didyma, and calico aster. We looked at the bloom calendar for each and decided on three each of the first five plants, which would provide a continuous bloom throughout the year. Having at least three of each plant is important so pollinators don’t have to wander too far to get a full meal.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/goldenrod.webp" alt="Sweet goldenrod" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/goldenrod.webp" alt="Sweet goldenrod" /></p> <p>For the groundcover layer, our candidate plants were foam flower, creeping phlox, three-leaf stonecrop, Pennsylvania sedge, and rosy sedge. For this planting, the garden committee decided not to use any sedges, so we decided on 13 foam flower, 13 creeping phlox, and 4 three-leaf stonecrop. In future projects, it would be better for us to use a greater biodiversity in this layer. Sedges, ferns, and plants like heuchera, geranium and large-leafed aster are also good groundcover plants for shady areas.</p> <p>Finally, for the dynamic filler layer, we chose wild columbine.</p> <p>For woodland ecosystems, there’s actually an additional secret spring ephemeral layer. <a rel="external" href="https://www.nycgovparks.org/learn/trees-and-plants/native-plants-of-new-york-city-spring-ephemerals">Spring ephemerals</a> are plants that bloom before forest trees leaf out in early spring and then completely die back in just a few weeks. They’re critical food sources for pollinators awakening from hibernation and unfortunately in decline due to invasive species such as Japanese barberry. Because these spring ephemerals die back so quickly, they don’t really compete with the other plants, allowing us to interplant them without worrying too much about overcrowding the area: another opportunity to add even more biodiversity. We found it very difficult to find spring ephemerals for sale in New York City, and ended up purchasing them online from <a rel="external" href="https://plantbuyingcollective.com/">Plant Buying Collective</a>. Let us know if you know of a local dealer! Our choices were three each of bloodroot, spring beauty, mayapple, dutchman’s breeches, and trout lily.</p> <h2 id="plant-layout">Plant layout</h2> <p>For this step, we researched the height of each plant in order to make sure the taller plants don’t shade out the shorter ones. Observe the path of the sun throughout the year; generally, taller plants will shade out plants north of them (though this may not be a problem if those are shade tolerant).</p> <p>The following graphic was made in Inkscape. We’ve since printed it out and posted it on a signboard near the planting for curious visitors.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/sumacgarden.webp" alt="Garden plan" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/sumacgarden.webp" alt="Garden plan" /></p> <p>The placement of structural plants is the most important. Next time, a central cluster of 3-5 New York ironweeds might be better. The exact placement of the structural plants doesn’t matter as much, but we try to create horizontal-ish “drifts” of 3-5 plants. The dynamic filler layer is scattered so the soil’s seed bank evenly fills up with columbine seeds. Finally, groundcover plants are placed to fill in all the gaps; their exact location is determined on planting day. Spring ephemerals can then be interplanted; they don’t need much room.</p> <h2 id="site-preparation">Site preparation</h2> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/garden-pre.webp" alt="Initial state of the site" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/garden-pre.webp" alt="Initial state of the site" /> The area was initially covered almost entirely in non-native vinca and liriope, which are both notoriously difficult to remove. Because vinca is rhizomatous, methods like sheet mulching are not effective. Due to the small scale of the planting, we decided on mechanical removal, and we went out during a rainstorm and weeded the area for 4-5 hours. The rain makes it much easier to ensure we remove all the parts of the plant, as vinca can grow back from just a few inches of remaining rhizome. However, rain also increases the danger of human-induced soil compaction, so we had to be careful to minimize how much we stepped into the bed. Three indispensable tools were a mattock (my love), hori hori knife, a CobraHead weeder, and a garden kneeler. We continued to do a few passes for the next week to catch any remaining roots.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/garden-prepped.webp" alt="The site after weeding" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/garden-prepped.webp" alt="The site after weeding" /></p> <p>One method of mechanical site preparation is to leave the bed alone at least for a few weeks and up to several months to see what grows back to continue weeding. However, because we are a public-facing community garden and this area was front-and-center, this was infeasible: we needed to minimize the time the site was bare soil. This is another reason why methods like sheet mulching or solarization are difficult in practice at community gardens. In general, the <a rel="external" href="https://xerces.org/publications/guidelines/organic-site-preparation-for-wildflower-establishment">Xerces Site Preparation guide</a> is invaluable for evaluating site preparation methods.</p> <p>A further downside to mechanical removal to this extent is the damage to soil structure by essentially tilling the first few inches of soil. This also brings up dormant weed seeds to the surface, which could overwhelm the planting next spring if we are not diligent about weeding regularly. But in this case, we found no other alternative.</p> <p>Luckily, the soil was not particularly compacted, which can be an issue especially on urban sites. If it was, we would’ve used a core aerator to aerate the soil (as opposed to more destructive and less effective methods such as tilling).</p> <h2 id="buying-the-plants">Buying the plants</h2> <p>As mentioned, we sourced most of the plants from Lowlands Nursery in Gowanus. We e-mailed the nursery to get our 25% discount as a community garden and sales tax exemption as a registered 501(c)(3) organization. A few of us took shopping bags and made the journey on the F train. It was convenient to go by subway (a taxi would be very expensive), but requires bringing several people: plants can’t really be stacked, so there’s a limit on how much one person can carry.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/plants.webp" alt="Plugs from the nursery" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/plants.webp" alt="Plugs from the nursery" /></p> <p>For our next planting, we will consider the city-run PECAN nursery (formerly the Greenbelt Center). They only work with government entities (including community gardens), but are almost four times cheaper than Lowlands, offer a wide selection, and collect much of their seed themselves from local wilderness, ensuring biodiversity and a local ecotype. The downside is that it is incredibly inconvenient to get to their Staten Island nursery, and they don’t offer delivery service. If we order from PECAN, we’ll likely ask a fellow gardener with a car to help with transportation (or just rent a car).</p> <p>We purchased columbine online from Prairie Moon Nursery and the spring ephemeral plants online from Plant Buying Collective, though they haven’t arrived yet.</p> <h2 id="site-installation">Site installation</h2> <p>Installation is also done in layers. First the structural plants, then seasonal theme plants, dynamic filler plants, and finally groundcover plants to fill in all gaps. Our spring ephemeral plants haven’t arrived yet, but when they do we will intersperse them between the groundcover plants.</p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/garden-structural.webp" alt="Structural layer" /></p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/garden-seasonal.webp" alt="Seasonal theme layout" /></p> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/garden-groundcover.webp" alt="Everything planted" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/garden-structural.webp" alt="Structural layer" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/garden-seasonal.webp" alt="Seasonal theme layout" /></p> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/garden-groundcover.webp" alt="Everything planted" /></p> <p>After all of our efforts in the plant selection and site preparation phases, installation was relatively straightforward. The important thing is to loosen the roots of the saplings and plant at the same height they were at in the container in order to avoid excessively burying or exposing the plant crown. Next time, we will try using an auger drill attachment, but it wasn’t necessary this time for such a small planting.</p> <h2 id="post-installation">Post-installation</h2> -<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/blog/native-plant-garden/cardinal.webp" alt="A cardinal cheering us on" /> +<p><img src="https://urbanecologycollective.org/posts/native-plant-garden/cardinal.webp" alt="A cardinal cheering us on" /> One great benefit of planting in the fall is that we don’t have to water that much (especially because it is a shady area). We gave the site a very thorough initial watering and again every few days for two weeks. Now, we water as necessary only if the soil is dried out. Hopefully by next year, the plants will be healthy enough to not need watering except in drought conditions.</p> <p>Our most important task for the next year is regular and thorough weeding, at least every few weeks. Other than that, we can think about higher level concerns. Are the groundcovers filling in nicely, or do they need to be supplemented? Are the flowers providing continuous bloom throughout the year or does the composition need to be amended? In a few years, we can consider whether we need to do a cutback in spring to preserve visual legibility (however, we’ll try to leave it alone if possible in order to preserve wildlife habitat). We will be sure to observe our visiting bees, butterflies, birds, and other pollinators and wildlife, as well as create more educational material to share our work and learnings with the community.</p> <p>Any questions or comments can be emailed to surya at modalduality dot org. If you’re ever in the New York area, come visit us at Green Oasis Community Garden in the East Village! We’re open weekends and have many <a rel="external" href="https://www.greenoasisnyc.org/events">exciting events</a> including theatre, concerts, and volunteer workdays.</p> |
